November 8, 2008I have a feeling the paint on the roof was already oxidizing and applying wax only makes it worse because the surface of the clearcoat is more porous, dry and powdery and the wax just absorbed into it. I do feel compounding the surface will give ya a chance to restore it at least one more time because it seems the clearcoat is failing, I hope there is enough clear left to go another few years at least.
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November 10, 2008I ried using some compound wax on the roof and it did just like the the other wax it was real hard to get off the truck and did''nt help much. So if I am reading correctly I should get the roof painted.
November 10, 2008There are different grades of cutting compounds an they are not considered a wax at all. You could try using a heavy duty compound made by 3M as your 2nd to last ditch effort to sanding. Buy the smallest bottle possible and use just a ounce *****or***** two to see if it cuts enough to remove the oxidation, if not return the bottle.
Then, use 1000 grit sandpaper using water ( a lot ) and under the water you will see as your sanding if the oxidation comes off by the appearance of color that you can see through the water, once you''''''''''''''''ve accomplished a spot go to another. You don''''''''''''''''t want to stay in one place to long because the clear is thin to begin with, after you have accomplished the whole thing then sand over with 2000 lightly. The goal here is to see if you can save it by doing it yourself, you can''''''''''''''''t mess up anything that eventually will end up being painted if you sand through the clearcoat into the base coat. This is your last ditch effort and that''''''''''''''''s why I say sanding is the last resort.
Imagine yourself looking horizontally at a flat surface, on top of the surface is powder and underneith it is a solid layer of clearcoat. We need to remove the powder and get close enough to the good clear that can be buffed out.
If you can see the 2000 grit is not cutting through the clear then you can buff it out with a mild compound. You don''''''''''''''''t have to press too hard when your sanding with the 2000, just fold the paper in 3rds and place on the palm of your hand making sure there is sufficient water running over it occasionally and let it glide over the surface. Make sure to mask with blue painters tape all the moldings and rubber before you start sanding to prevent scratches.
If you sand through the clearcoat you will see a slight halo around the area, don''''''''''''''''t worry you plan on painting the roof anyway an you are basically prepping the surface for the painter anyway. This is the point where you can forget about saving it and start prepping it for the paint shop. This at least will assure you that the paint shop will not ignore sanding all the oxidation off because sometimes they won''''''''''''''''t do a good enough job and in time the paint will start pealing away because of bad adhesion because the oxidation is still there.
Hope this helps.
Post a picture would ya? I''''d like to see it in teh condition it''''s in.
January 27, 2009How much sprayable material would i need to spray a 98 expedition outside only,20" wheels(rattle canned right now),and the speedo,radio,airbag cover?Im going to do the murdered out look on my expedition.YOu have any experience with TCP Hotrod Flatz?
January 28, 2009For a 98 Expy and all you going to do in the inside???? I would say your gonna be safe with 2 1/2 gallons of color, 2 gallons of reducer, 3 gallons of clear, 3 quarts of hardener. Cost? 1300.00 around there *or* so.
January 29, 2009Only spraying the oustide,Jams, and the air bag cover,speedo and radio bezel and also spraying 20" rims with the same color
January 29, 2009Exactley, outside,jambs and interior parts, This should give ya 3-4 coats of color all around plus your interior parts, 4-5 coats of clear.
January 30, 2009Do you have any experience with hot rod flatz?it says it doesnt require a clear,but I was planning on it just for a little more chip protection.
January 31, 2009Sorry cant say I do but they have other things you can buy that comes in a spray can.
February 20, 2009I currently have a craftsman 33gallon compressor that can support 8.6scfm @ 40psi and 6.4scfm @ 90psi. I''m wanting to paint my door panels that I''ve fiberglassed on my ride. I''ve never sprayed before but have done all the prep work to the point and have always given it to my friend to paint. well I decided I want to try now. I have the following spray gun do you think that this would work for me to learn?
I know it''s a cheapie harbor freight gun *or* should I get an quality gun to learn with like the Iwata LPH400-LVX is what I was looking at getting but don''t know if my compressor will be able to handle it. I''m thinking is should since I''m only doing a panel at a time. I''ll be doing a BC/CC and not a single stage also. Let me know your thoughts on the spray guns. Thanks again in advance
February 22, 2009What you have is fine, I have a 30 gal an you can do just about anything. Painting a whole car can be difficult but I can do it. Your HF gun will work because I believe it''''''''s more the experiance in the person pulling the trigger then the gun that dictates a great job. But! the Iwata is a GREAT gun, I have 3 of them with all 3 of the paint caps, purple, orange and the silver. Since the Iwata requires less air to automize the paint your gonna be able to do a lot with it, you won''''''''t regret it!
7 years ago I bought a new paint gun after not painting for 10 years, since then my old guns were out of date and required a big compressor to get them to work decently. One day I walked into "Big Lots" Formally called "Pick & Save" there in the automotive section was a HVLP gun and since finding FTW I saw a lot of folks having stuff painted so I plopped down $50 bucks for this gun and since everyone here saw what I was doing soon I was asked to paint parts for many folks.
So! It''''''''s not really about having the best stuff but having the talent to do with what you have.
Here is some of my work:
Can you tell which cars where done with the PICK & SAVE GUN vs the IWATA?
Get what you want and fire away! Be patient with the learning curve you''''''''ll go through an then watch out! I''''''''ll have competition.
February 23, 2009Thanks for the reply.. I''ve had a lot of people telling me I should get the Iwata since it will be easier to learn with. But just being a hobby of mine I don''t know if I can justify the expense. But they tell me that I''ll save $$$ on materials since it will produce less overspray... But sounds like you think that the HF gun will work for me to start off with.. which is what I was hoping you''d say... haha.... I''m just waiting on the weather to get warmer so I can start practicing..
Also I tried checking out the link and it brings me back to this post.
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